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A village in Tuscany

"L'altro giorno, scendendo da Siena verso Roma per la Cassia, mi sono fermato a Monterongriffoli, un nodo di case in vetta a un poggio fra Torrenieri e San Giovanni d'Asso, (a poche miglia da Pienza e da Montepulciano, per intenderci), nella fattoria dell'editore Vallecchi... " ["The other day, heading from Siena in the direction of Rome along the Via Cassia, I stopped off at Monterongriffoli, a cluster of houses on top of a hill between Torrenieri and San Giovanni d'Asso (a few miles from Pienza and from Montepulciano, to be precise), on the farm estate belonging to Vallecchi, the publisher... "] 

 

Curzio Malaparte, Due anni di battibecco: 1953-1955. Garzanti, 1955

"Pare che in origine questo luogo portasse il nome generico di Monte, siccome lo darebbe a congetturare una chiesa del piviere di Pava che denominavasi la Canonica di Monte. Nel secolo XIII  cambiò desinenza in Monterone, di cui fu nativo un prete Jacopo di Guglielmino da Monterone, che nel 1249 ebbe l'investitura dal proposto di Arezzo della pieve di Pava... Finalmente prese il distintivo che porta tuttora di Monteron-Grifoli da una illustre prosapia innanzi che l'attuale tenuta di questo luogo pasasse nella illustre prosapia Borghesi di Siena, che vi edificò un bel palazzo, attualmente della famiglia Bellugi pure di Siena, situato sull'orlo di un baratro spaventevole." ["This locality seems originally to have gone by the generic name of Monte, something that can be conjectured from a church, the Canonica di Monte, that was located in the parish of Pava. In the 13th century, the suffix changed and it became Monterone, a native of which, a priest by the name of Jacopo di Guglielmino da Monterone, was in 1249 put in charge of the parish church of Pava at the recommendation of Arezzo... It finally became Monteron-Grifoli, and remains so to this day, after the illustrious and noble family of that name, before the possession of this locality passed to the illustrious and noble Borghesi family of Siena, who built a fine palazzo there situated on the edge of a terrifying ravine, currently in the possession of the Bellugi family, also of Siena."]  

 

Emanuele Repetti, Dizionario Geografico Fisico Storico Della Toscana, vol 3. Florence: 1839

Curzio Malaparte
Edamuele Repetti - Dizionario

Monterongriffoli - the history of a name

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According to Emanuele Repetti, the 19th century historian of Tuscany, the village was known as Monterone at least from the 13th century. As evidence, Repetti cited the appointment of Jacopo di Guglielmino da Monterone as senior priest of the local parish of Pieve di Pava in 1249.

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Repetti also suggested that the village had originally gone by the shorter name of "Monte", but modern scholarship has cast doubt on this hypothesis. The Canonica di Monte which he associates with the village's purported earliest name is now thought to have been the Canonica di Santo Stefano in Monte at a different location altogether - the locality known today as La Canonica, near Vergelle.¹

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Early forms and variants of the name Monterongriffoli included: Monteroni d'Asso, Monterone lo Grifoli, Monteron lo Grifi, Monteron-Grifoli and Monteron Griffoli.

 

The first known written reference to the village dates from December 1208, in the context of taxes levied by Siena². And in 1226 a representative from Siena was sent here to recover the property of a citizen of Orvieto who had been robbed. The records show that the former was paid expenses "pro suo viagio quando ivit a Monteronem Griffoli"³.

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1. Cristina Felici, Franco Raffaelli, San Giovanni d'Asso - Carta Archeologica della Provincia di Siena vol X. Siena: Nuova Immagine Editrice, 2012

2. Monterongriffoli was expected to contribute 200 librae as part of a drive to pay off Siena's debts incurred in the 1307-8 war with Florence. For comparison, 250 librae was demanded from neighbouring San Giovanni d'Asso and 100 from Lucignano d'Asso. See Odile Redon, L'espace d'une cité - Sienne et le pays siennois (XIIIe-XIVe siècles). Rome: École française de Rome, 1994, pp 121-23.

3. Felici, Raffaelli, op cit

The history of a name

"Pienza 12. agosto. Da questo Reverendiss. Sig. Canonico Gio. Domenico Pellegrini Pro-Vicario Generale di questa Città, e Diocesi fu il dì 10. del corrente solennemente benedetta la nuova Chiesa Plebana del Castello di Monteron-Griffoli dedicata  al Martire S. Lorenzo; non solo decorata, e per scelta musica e per il numeroso popolo da' circonvicini Paesi venuto a godere della sacra funzione. Questa riuscì di somma soddisfazione stante un fervoroso discorso  fatto in tale occasione dal Padre F. Giuseppe Deodato Cotolenghi Agostiniano oriundo di Fouano di Piemonte, e attualmente Reggente nel Convento  di S. Martino di Siena." ["Pienza, 12th August. The new parish church of the Castle of Monteron-Griffoli, dedicated to St. Lawrence Martyr, was solemnly consecrated by the Most Reverend Canon Gio. Domenico Pellegrini, pro-vicar general of this city and diocese on the 10th day of the present month. The occasion was enhanced not just by choice music but also by the presence of a large number of people from neighbouring villages who had come to rejoice in the sacred function. The service passed off to the great satisfaction of those present thanks to a fervent address made to mark the occasion by Father F. Giuseppe Deodato Cotolenghi of the Augustinian order, a native of Fouano in Piemonte, head of the Convento di S. Martino in Siena."]

 

Gazzetta Toscana, 1780, No. 35 

From an original photo by Stéphane Mendelssohn

The Monterongriffoli altarpiece

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One of the most accomplished early Sienese School paintings historically linked to the provincial towns in the countryside around Tuscany's second city was painted for the church of San Lorenzo in Monterongriffoli.

 

Datable to the first decades of the 1300s, the altarpiece is the work of an anonymous follower of Duccio di Buoninsegna, the founder of the Sienese School. 

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Its five main panels depict the Virgin and Child flanked, on one side, by saints Marcellino and Lorenzo, and, on the other, by saints Leonardo and Agostino Martyr. According to local tradition, Marcellino and Agostino were Christians martyred in the first years of the 4th century AD under Emperor Diocletian in the aptly-dubbed Valle Santa (Holy Valley) which lies nearby.

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Attributed variously in the past to the workshop of Duccio follower Ugolino di Nerio or to the so-called "Goodhart Ducciesque Master" (a designation derived from a Madonna and Child panel formerly in the Goodhart collection in New York), the Monterongriffoli polyptych has since 2003 been redesignated by Italian art historians as the work of the "Maestro della Maestà Gondi" in reference to the anonymous author of a Virgin and Child linked to the Gondi family. 

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The changing reattributions of authorship have been closely matched by the altarpiece's physical peregrinations, for the village church in which the painting was originally housed was abandoned in the 18th century after a series of earthquakes. The new church, erected a short distance away at a lower level in the village, was consecrated in 1780 (see contemporary report in Gazzetta Toscana, above), and the altarpiece remained there until the 20th century, when it was moved for permanent safekeeping to the Museo Diocesano in neighbouring Pienza.  

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For all these changes of location, the work is a rare example of a Duccio period altarpiece that survives with most of its original carpentry intact. It is also unusual in its use of a silver ground for the tempera paint instead of the more usual and costly gold.  

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A modern copy of the altarpiece hangs in the Church of San Lorenzo in Monterongriffoli today.

 

Further reading:  

- Gabriele Fattorini, "Aggiornamenti dal Museo Diocesano", in: Canonica, Rivista di Studi Pientini, 3/2013, pp 19-22

- Alessandro Bagnoli, “Maestro della Maestà Gondi”, in:  A. Bagnoli, R. Bartalini, L. Bellosi e M. Laclotte (eds.), Duccio. Alle origini della pittura senese (exhibition catalogue). Cinisello Balsamo, Milan: Silvana Editoriale, 2003, pp 334-342  

- Artistic Guide to the Province of Siena website, 'Maestro della Maestà Gondi'

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The Etruscans

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Numerous archeological finds in Monterongriffoli and the surrounding area attest to its Etruscan past.

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The most important of these was in around 1538, when, according to historical accounts, an elaborate underground tomb was discovered at Monterongriffoli containing a niche with a sarcophagus surmounted by a sculpture of a recumbent figure. Arrayed on shelving around it were 16 smaller urns with inscriptions, each one accompanied by the tools of each deceased person's trade. The inscriptions revealed that the tomb belonged to the Haprni family.

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A surviving mid-16th Century description of the find (in Italian) is remarkable for its detailed account of the contents of the burial chamber (scroll down for English translation):

 

"Intorno al 1538 si trovò a Monterongrigffoli una stanza sotterra, tutta tagliata e incorniciata nel tufo, non senza grandissima diligenza. La lunghezza era di circa 10 braccia; larghezza 5. Intorno v’erano i murelli, dove per ordine si stendevano l’urne, piene di cenere, sotto le quali si vedevano varie forme di strumenti, già corrotti dal tempo, li quali mostravano qual arte avesse esercitata ciascheduno in vita.

Nella testa v’era un nicchio col suo posamento alquanto più alto, dove si vedeva un’urna assai maggiore, nel cui coperchio, fatto a modo di letticciolo, giaceva una donna vecchia, la quale posto il gomito nel guanciale, a una mano appoggiava la testa, con l’altra porgeva una tazza. Pensano alcuni che da questa donna descendessino tutti gli altri d'intorno ; e che, o per non macchiare la passata felicità con alcuna miseria, vivendo più oltra, o per liberarsi del tutto dell'infelice vita presente, deliberasse morire, pigliando il veleno, secondo il costume dei Marsiliesi. Il che facilmente potrebbesi credere considerando che la maniera dello stare di questa donna non è differente da quella che fu descritta da Valerio Massimo nel primo libro al capitolo II quando parla delle due arche, le quali erano innanzi alla porta di Massilia.

Di rincontro v’era la porta tutta di travertino, larga 2 braccia, alta poco più di due e mezzo. I canti erano colonne striate, fatte in quadro da piè e da capo con i suoi ornamenti. Sopra v’era l’arcotrave con il fregio, la cornice e il frontispizio, nel mezzo del quale era intagliata una rosa, la quale era insegna di quel casato, perché intorno alla stanza scolpite nel tufo e in alcuna delle urne si vedevano le rose, nelle quali ancora appareva una certa tentura di minio. Questa porta si serrava e apriva con tavole del medesimo travertino, acconce talmente né suoi cardini che agevolmente si potevano muovere. In queste tavole v’erano impiombati alcuni ferramenti con i quali si serravano.​

Innanzi alla detta porta vi si trovarono tavole di pietra grandi e altri sassi e mattoni abrostinati, con assai carboni. Si giudica che in questo luogo solessino abrusciare i corpi. Si trovarono ancora varie sorti di vasi di terra. Una parte dell’urna era di mistura simile al gesso, d’odore assai grave, e molto durevole, si come si è veduto per prova, essendo state sotterrate più di 1400 anni e poi fuora alle piogge, a’ caldi e al ghiaccio."  [Excerpt from an anonymous manuscript of Etruscan inscriptions with Italian decipherings sent by Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, the Spanish plenipotentiary in Rome, to the Bishop of Arras in 1552. Formerly in the Sloane Collection and now at the British Library in London, Sloane MS 3524 ff. 59-67. The passage translates as follows:]

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"In around 1538 an underground chamber was discovered at Monterongriffoli, entirely hewn out of, and enclosed within, the tufo. Fashioned with the greatest of care, it was around 10 cubits ["braccia"] in length, and five wide [one Sienese braccio was the equivalent of about 60 cm].  Along the low walls that bordered the chamber was a line of urns filled with ashes. Below them could be seen various kinds of tools, degraded by time, revealing what trade each person had exercised in life.

At the far end was a niche set somewhat higher, where a much bigger urn could be seen. On its lid, shaped like a small couch, reclined an elderly woman with her elbow propped on a pillow, supporting her head with one hand and holding out a cup with the other.  Some are of the view that all the others were the progeny of this woman; and that either to avoid tarnishing past happiness with any misery by living any longer, or to escape entirely a wretched present life, she had resolved to die by taking poison in the manner of the Massilians [inhabitants of the ancient Greek colony of Massalia, Latin Massilia, present-day Marseille]. That is easy to believe considering that the woman's posture is no different from that described by Valerius Maximus in Book I, Chapter II, where he writes about the two coffins kept before the gate of Massilia.*

Situated at the other end was the entrance, made entirely of travertine, two cubits wide and just over two and a half high [see above note on the Sienese cubit or braccio]. At its sides, from top to bottom, were square fluted columns with their ornamentation, surmounted by an architrave with a frieze, cornice and a pediment in the middle of which a rose had been sculpted. It must have been the family crest given that roses could be seen carved out of the tufo around the chamber and on some of the urns. A faint trace of red pigment still clung to them. The entrance was opened and closed with slabs of identical travertine, which fitted so smoothly into their sockets that they could be moved with ease. Set into the slabs and sealed with lead were iron fittings employed for closing the doors.

In front of this entrance were large slabs of stone and other charred stones and bricks, with a large quantity of charcoal. It is believed that bodies used to be cremated on the site. Various kinds of earthenware pottery were also found. An urn fragment was made of a paste similar to gypsum with a very strong smell and very durable, as was seen by testing: having been buried for more than 1,400 years it was subsequently exposed to the outside rain, heat and frost." 

 

*The reference is to Memorable Deeds and Sayings by the first-century AD Roman author Valerius Maximus. In an account of the customs of Massilia, he describes how two coffins were kept at the gates of the city, one for the bodies of free men and the other for slaves, and how it was customary for a minimum of grieving to be displayed at funerals. A poison mixed with hemlock was available in the city for citizens who had experienced bad or good fortune and wanted to die "lest the former persists or the latter ceases". 

In an adjacent passage, the Roman author relates how, in Ioulis on the island of Kea in the Cyclades, a woman of high rank cheerfully took a cup of poison in her ninetieth year after a lifetime enjoying "fortune's favour". The passage describes how, taking to her death bed, she leant on her elbow and told family and witnesses that she preferred a "happy conclusion" now rather than living on to see her fortunes change for the worse later. 

The manuscript's interpretation of the scene depicted in the Monterongriffoli burial chamber and the reference to the writings of Valerius Maximus are today regarded as somewhat fanciful.

The Etruscans

© 2018-2026 Text and images by ViaDelCastello Monterongriffoli

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